Finally, the real Italy

My first foray into Italy was an accidental stop off in Pisa. It's a long story, but in short, a few hour stop off on the way from Budapest to Albania coming up two years ago, turned into a two day stopover for a friend and I after our plane was cancelled for no apparent reason.

I didn't warm to Pisa and it certainly didn't live up to my expectations for Italy. It was teaming with tourists (mainly Americans on tour buses - not that I have anything against them), the food served in restaurants was frozen pasta meals and breakfast involved packet croissants (you know the ones that physically can't go off because they are packed with preservatives).

My second trip was a much more successful trip to Sardinia with 9 friends for Easter last year. While we stayed at a lovely villa and revealed in the relative warmth compared to London, we didn't really get out and about in the villages of Sardinia. I came away from the trip feeling like I was yet to experience the real Italy.
This, my third trip to Italy, has finally allowed me to get a sense of the Italy that I was so sure was lurking here somewhere. The farm I am staying on is 4 kms from a town called Orte. I spent my morning wandering around the town and soaking up the 'italianess' of it all.

Cappacinos for one euro; locals having their morning shot of grappa; enticing bakeries with fresh ciabatta and pizza by the slice; crumbling buildings; roads so narrow the cars could barely squeeze through; flower boxes; delis selling fresh pasta and olives; vegetable stores brimming with artichoke, radicchio and tomatoes; little old ladies wearing headscarves and wheeling their morning purchases in those funny little shopping trollies; old men smoking on the street; clothing stores selling leisure suits (and frighteningly people wearing leisure suits); vespas; washing hanging from balconies high above; gelato shops; window shutters - my morning stroll lived up to every Italian stereotype I had in my head.

The other bonus which I must harp on about, not a single tourist in sight. Orte won't be in your guidebook, it's only claim to fame according to wikipedia appears to be its prominence as a road and rail hub and some battles during roman times - but for me it was the Italian experience I have been waiting for.